As unbearable as this afternoon's heat was, this morning was worse. After leaving the hotel just after 7am, our first stop was Valley of the Kings. Disappointingly, we weren't allowed to bring our cameras, because apparently photography can start to ruin some of the artwork in the tombs. Our tickets were good for three tombs; of the 63 in total, only 11 were open to the public, and of those we were allowed to see three. Our tour guide originally chose the tombs of a king and his queen (although their names escape me at the moment), Ramses I, and Ramses III. The first tomb was incredibly hot and the smell was nauseating. Thankfully, the trip to the burial chamber was a short one. That wasn't so much the case with the tomb of Ramses I, where you had to descend 90 steep steps to get to the bottom. Literally standing in the tomb made you drip in sweat. Before 9am, I'd drank almost 3L of water, but that didn't help the heat.
The real challenge came with the last tomb. Rather than visit the tomb of Ramses III, our group decided to opt for one of the most challenging tombs to descend, that of Thutmoses III. We had to more or less scale the steep side of a mountain cliff (via a set of rickety, steep stairs) and then bear some more steps to get into the entrance. Once inside, getting to the burial chamber meant a series of tucking, dodging, and ducking to avoid hitting your head or slipping. After what seemed like hundreds of stairs, we had completed our descent. I simply can't explain the heat at the bottom of that chamber - standing there, I felt like I was ready to burst into flames at any moment. After climbing all the way back to the entrance of the tomb, it was nice to soak in the comparatively cool air.
We went into King Tut's tomb as well - while he wasn't initially a very famous pharaoh, his tomb was the only one left intact, so of course everyone knows who he is now. His mummy is laying inside the tomb, in a vacuum-sealed glass case. I don't know that it was worth the 50 LE admission price, but it was good to see all the same.
After Valley of the Kings, we made a quick stop at a locally owned alabaster shop. The people there made vases, small statues, jewelry, and thousands of other things there by hand, carving and chiseling away at granite, basalt, and alabaster, among other things. After watching the process, they lead us into a shop housing thousands of items they'd made themselves. While not cheap, I brought back a few souvenirs for only about $20 total (I've seriously become so good at haggling).
Next stop was the temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt's only true female pharaoh. She adorned herself with the dress of the kings, and behaved as such in the wake of her husband's death. She had a huge temple built in her honor, which sits on the other side of the mountain where the Valley of the Kings is found. It was massive - huge statues were at each of the three main levels, along with artwork and more hieroglyphics. Deeper inside was a courtyard with pillars and more statues. At that point, it was already past noon (when we were told we'd be getting back to the hotel) and everyone was hungry and tired. Not a great combination.
Our last stop was at Medinet Habu, the mortuary temple of Ramses III. To be honest, it looked like all the other temples we'd seen at this point, and the heat was really affecting all of us. It was unbearable for the hour-plus we were there, and we didn't end up leaving until just after two, two hours later than we'd been told we'd get back to the hotel. Needless to say, we were beyond hungry, not to mention grumpy and hot. We were dropped off at a local shop that made koshery, a delicious combination of lentils, chick peas, fried onions, rice, and pasta. For only ten pounds (less than $2), we were presented a good amount of tasty food, which made things okay for the time being.
After walking back to the hotel from the restaurant, we all hit the pool for a few hours. Since today is Annalise (one of the photo students)'s 21st birthday, we all went out to a local pub to celebrate. It was the first slice of home we'd gotten in a long time - I ordered a cheeseburger, or their equivalent, which was equal parts cheese and beef and tasted a lot like Hamburger Helper. Cocktails were two for one, so needless to say, we all had our share. I had two White Saharas, which were made of rum, vodka, mango, and orange juice. You couldn't really taste the alcohol in them, which made getting drunk all too easy. But hey, what's a 21st birthday for if not to let loose a little? Everyone had a great time, and it was a nice way to unwind after a hot and stressful day.
I've been reading some comments, and I've just now noticed your comments, Robbie. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. First, while I've met a camel or two (or a few hundred), I've yet to be spit on by one. But on Tuesday, we'll be riding camels, so that may change. Yeah, I watched the man put the sand in the bottles, and he was so meticulous with each one, it really was beautiful to watch. I didn't buy any, but they're quite common here, so if you'd like one I can bring you back one.
As for the kids asking for money, it is heartbreaking, but it's something you see every day. Everywhere you go, people are offering to sell you things, kids included. They're introduced to the culture early on, so for them it's just a part of life. Kids and adults included, everyone asks for baksheesh, or tip money, for performing even the simplest of tasks, such as pointing you to the bathroom. You just have to learn to say no. When I was taking pictures of those kids through the fence, I held out an American quarter to them, and they were fighting each other just for that small amount. They were all grabbing my hand, trying to be the first to claim the quarter. It's sad to us, but that's the life they know and are accustomed to.
No, I haven't had any meat like the meat I've seen hanging - I think I'd get really sick after eating that! Just the occasional piece of meat in a local restaurant. Meat isn't really a staple to the people here - it's included in some dishes, but plenty don't have meat in them. I hope that answers your questions - I'll try to call soon. I love you, kiddo :)
The internet is being super slow today, so I'll upload a few pictures from the past few days next time I get the chance. Happy Mother's Day, mom!
Hi hon. Was happy to see another update from you and know you are well :) Thanks for answering your brother...he will be thrilled! If it's not too much money a magic lamp would be cool! love, mom
ReplyDeleteI can haggle and get a magic lamp for under $5, so don't worry, I'll get one :) Sorry I couldn't call you yesterday, but happy Mother's Day! I'll try to call as soon as I can, and I should be able to once I get back to Cairo tomorrow.
ReplyDeleteWhat I'd like to find out is, how's the whole haggling process? So used to the whole, here's the price, take it as it is system in america that I think I'd find a thrill in bargaining XD,
ReplyDelete-lisa hean