Ono in front of the pyramids

A kid selling papyrus outside of the sphinx entrance

Just your typical photo of the sphinx

Me in front of the pyramids!

Camels!

Back to Cairo

So in our last day in Luxor, we went to Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. Karnak was huge - a lot bigger than I was expecting. It was completed by Ramses II, but construction started with Ramses I. There was a scarab statue there, and it was rumored that if you walked around it seven times, it would bring you good luck. So of course, a bunch of us walked in a circle around it! After that we went to Luxor temple, which I thought was actually a bit overrated. The city of Luxor was built around the temple, so it wasn't quite as secluded and serene as the rest of the temples we'd been to. Because it's such a tourist hotspot, the beauty of it was taken away a bit by the hustle.

Afterwards, we had quite a bit of free time at our hotel. We had to check out of our rooms at noon, but we had a few rooms to spend time in before we had to leave. I wrote out about 20 postcards, but I still have another dozen or so people to get to! We left around 8pm to fly back to Cairo, where we're spending the next four weeks or so. The flight itself was only about an hour, and I slept through the entire thing, so it wasn't too terrible. But when we got on the bus, I was talking to a few friends here and started getting extremely homesick. I can't remember exactly what I was talking about (missing Robbie's birthday, I think) and I just started crying. I tried to pretend everything was fine, and I don't think anyone noticed me crying on the bus, but it took everything in me not to just break down right then. I think it was the amount of traveling getting to me - since we started this trip, we haven't stayed in the same hotel for more than two nights at a time. Now that we're back in Cairo and staying in Cairo for the rest of the time (apart from day trips to Alexandria and a possible excursion to Siwa), I've been able to unpack and settle into my room. Don't get me wrong, I'm having a great time, but there are definitely moments I miss home so incredibly much.

Today was much better. We spent the day in Giza and got to see two of the most famous sights in Egypt - the pyramids and the sphinx. We took camels to get to the pyramids, which was absolutely amazing. Camels are so much taller than you think, but getting on them wasn't too bad. After climbing up, the camel boys told us to lean back as the camel stood up. We had to hold on as not to fall off at first, but the camels were actually really gentle as they stood up. The trip to our viewing spot was about a half an hour, and then we took camels back to see the sphinx afterwards. The camel behind me, which Lauren and Drew rode on the way there and back, respectively, was super friendly. I was petting her (I think it was a girl) almost the whole way there and she kept nuzzling closer to me. The place we stopped for pictures was relatively secluded and there were no other tourists in the area. Behind us was the set-up for the X-Games that are taking place in Giza this Friday (and yes, we're going!) It's an exhibition, not a performance, but it should be awesome to watch all the same. If you want to check it out, follow the link attached: http://www.redbull.com/cs/Satellite/en_INT/Event/X-Fighters-Egypt-021242825567729

After seeing the pyramids, we took our camels back over to see the sphinx. While it was pretty tourist-y, it was still really neat to see. We took some photos and got back on the bus - nothing too exciting to note there. I'll post pictures, but it's nothing you couldn't find on a postcard anyway. The really neat pictures are the ones of us on camels!

Before lunch, we stopped by the Egypt Papyrus Museum, where after showing us how to make papyrus (just like we saw yesterday too), we were allowed to look around the gallery. I've already ruined enough souvenirs by talking about them in my blog, but I did buy a few pieces of their work to bring back for people. All of the pieces were hand-painted there and the work was absolutely stunning. We ate lunch at an outdoors restaurant, which was included in the cost of our trip. Food was family-style dining, where they just brought out plate after plate of delicious food - tahini sauce, falafels, rice wrapped in cabbage, shish-kabobs, and so much more. It was probably the best meal I've had to date, and it's put me in a semi-permanent food coma.

Since getting back, I've been trying to write my paper due by the end of the night (and somewhat failing, thanks to the distraction blogging has provided). Our first day of class is tomorrow, which I'm actually really looking forward to. Class is 9-1, and we're going to the American Embassy afterwards. I'll post some pictures from the past few days (Karnak and Luxor, and then Giza this morning).

112 degrees in Luxor...

I don't think I can accurately sum up just how hot it was today. You see the number '112' but it doesn't really register until you're standing in the sun, barely able to move. Even as I'm writing this after midnight, the temps are still in the low nineties.

As unbearable as this afternoon's heat was, this morning was worse. After leaving the hotel just after 7am, our first stop was Valley of the Kings. Disappointingly, we weren't allowed to bring our cameras, because apparently photography can start to ruin some of the artwork in the tombs. Our tickets were good for three tombs; of the 63 in total, only 11 were open to the public, and of those we were allowed to see three. Our tour guide originally chose the tombs of a king and his queen (although their names escape me at the moment), Ramses I, and Ramses III. The first tomb was incredibly hot and the smell was nauseating. Thankfully, the trip to the burial chamber was a short one. That wasn't so much the case with the tomb of Ramses I, where you had to descend 90 steep steps to get to the bottom. Literally standing in the tomb made you drip in sweat. Before 9am, I'd drank almost 3L of water, but that didn't help the heat.

The real challenge came with the last tomb. Rather than visit the tomb of Ramses III, our group decided to opt for one of the most challenging tombs to descend, that of Thutmoses III. We had to more or less scale the steep side of a mountain cliff (via a set of rickety, steep stairs) and then bear some more steps to get into the entrance. Once inside, getting to the burial chamber meant a series of tucking, dodging, and ducking to avoid hitting your head or slipping. After what seemed like hundreds of stairs, we had completed our descent. I simply can't explain the heat at the bottom of that chamber - standing there, I felt like I was ready to burst into flames at any moment. After climbing all the way back to the entrance of the tomb, it was nice to soak in the comparatively cool air.

We went into King Tut's tomb as well - while he wasn't initially a very famous pharaoh, his tomb was the only one left intact, so of course everyone knows who he is now. His mummy is laying inside the tomb, in a vacuum-sealed glass case. I don't know that it was worth the 50 LE admission price, but it was good to see all the same.

After Valley of the Kings, we made a quick stop at a locally owned alabaster shop. The people there made vases, small statues, jewelry, and thousands of other things there by hand, carving and chiseling away at granite, basalt, and alabaster, among other things. After watching the process, they lead us into a shop housing thousands of items they'd made themselves. While not cheap, I brought back a few souvenirs for only about $20 total (I've seriously become so good at haggling).

Next stop was the temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt's only true female pharaoh. She adorned herself with the dress of the kings, and behaved as such in the wake of her husband's death. She had a huge temple built in her honor, which sits on the other side of the mountain where the Valley of the Kings is found. It was massive - huge statues were at each of the three main levels, along with artwork and more hieroglyphics. Deeper inside was a courtyard with pillars and more statues. At that point, it was already past noon (when we were told we'd be getting back to the hotel) and everyone was hungry and tired. Not a great combination.

Our last stop was at Medinet Habu, the mortuary temple of Ramses III. To be honest, it looked like all the other temples we'd seen at this point, and the heat was really affecting all of us. It was unbearable for the hour-plus we were there, and we didn't end up leaving until just after two, two hours later than we'd been told we'd get back to the hotel. Needless to say, we were beyond hungry, not to mention grumpy and hot. We were dropped off at a local shop that made koshery, a delicious combination of lentils, chick peas, fried onions, rice, and pasta. For only ten pounds (less than $2), we were presented a good amount of tasty food, which made things okay for the time being.

After walking back to the hotel from the restaurant, we all hit the pool for a few hours. Since today is Annalise (one of the photo students)'s 21st birthday, we all went out to a local pub to celebrate. It was the first slice of home we'd gotten in a long time - I ordered a cheeseburger, or their equivalent, which was equal parts cheese and beef and tasted a lot like Hamburger Helper. Cocktails were two for one, so needless to say, we all had our share. I had two White Saharas, which were made of rum, vodka, mango, and orange juice. You couldn't really taste the alcohol in them, which made getting drunk all too easy. But hey, what's a 21st birthday for if not to let loose a little? Everyone had a great time, and it was a nice way to unwind after a hot and stressful day.

I've been reading some comments, and I've just now noticed your comments, Robbie. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. First, while I've met a camel or two (or a few hundred), I've yet to be spit on by one. But on Tuesday, we'll be riding camels, so that may change. Yeah, I watched the man put the sand in the bottles, and he was so meticulous with each one, it really was beautiful to watch. I didn't buy any, but they're quite common here, so if you'd like one I can bring you back one.

As for the kids asking for money, it is heartbreaking, but it's something you see every day. Everywhere you go, people are offering to sell you things, kids included. They're introduced to the culture early on, so for them it's just a part of life. Kids and adults included, everyone asks for baksheesh, or tip money, for performing even the simplest of tasks, such as pointing you to the bathroom. You just have to learn to say no. When I was taking pictures of those kids through the fence, I held out an American quarter to them, and they were fighting each other just for that small amount. They were all grabbing my hand, trying to be the first to claim the quarter. It's sad to us, but that's the life they know and are accustomed to.

No, I haven't had any meat like the meat I've seen hanging - I think I'd get really sick after eating that! Just the occasional piece of meat in a local restaurant. Meat isn't really a staple to the people here - it's included in some dishes, but plenty don't have meat in them. I hope that answers your questions - I'll try to call soon. I love you, kiddo :)

The internet is being super slow today, so I'll upload a few pictures from the past few days next time I get the chance. Happy Mother's Day, mom!

Some pictures from Kom Ombo and Edfu

Some of the hieroglyphics in Edfu Temple

Some children begging for money

Another little girl

A glance at the temple in Edfu

Rob taking a picture of his son's toy truck

Trip to Luxor

Internet is hard to come by, and when I'm lucky enough to have access, it's pretty slow. So I do apologize if my blogs are somewhat irregular. Yesterday, I gave up altogether on posting those last five pictures (which I posted just a few moments ago), so I posted them today instead.

This morning, we got up bright and early and left Aswan. It was a gorgeous city, and definitely one I'm going to miss. We left by bus for Luxor, and made several stops along the way. Our first destination was the Temple of Kom Ombo, which is unique in that it's the only Egyptian temple to worship two gods - Horus, son of Orisis and Isis, and his evil brother, Sobek, the crocodile god. After that, we went to Edfu, a town just south of Luxor that is home to Edfu temple. The lives of the people who live there seem to be centered on the temple, which attracts a heavy number of tourists and drives their economy. Edfu temple is dedicated to Horus and is known to be the most well-preserved of the temples because it's located far (comparatively) from the Nile.

Between the stops and the traffic, the trip from Aswan to Luxor took seven hours. I fell asleep in a fetal position on the bus seats and woke up feeling pretty miserable. Even though I'd had plenty of water (I've been drinking between 4 and 5 liters of water each day), I hadn't eaten since breakfast, which was only some scrambled eggs and a few pieces of fruit. Thankfully, the hotel we're at now, Iberotel, is modern and comfortable. The rooms are air-conditioned, which they have been elsewhere, but our room this time is actually cold. The beds are large and comfortable, and the hotel lobby is spacious too. And conveniently enough, I've been able to steal a wifi signal when I'm downstairs in the lobby. The hotel charges 120 LE (about $25) per day for wireless access, which is a lot more than I'm willing to pay.

We went to an "Irish pub" for dinner, which wasn't entirely like the Irish pubs back home. The one TV was playing American music, but nothing I'd listen to back home; a trashy techno remix of Under Pressure featuring Vanilla Ice, some Jennifer Lopez music, and not surprisingly, Celine Dion. They love Celine Dion here. I guess that's a good thing, since in the states, she hasn't really been popular since the 90s. All the same, there was delicious mac and cheese, which made the walk to the restaurant in staggering heat well worth it.

After dinner, we all kicked back at the pool overlooking the Nile. The pool at the Isis Corniche, the last hotel we were at, was nice too. But this one's bigger, the water is just slightly warmer, and it's on an actual boat docked just off the coast. We watched the sun go down over the Nile as we tossed a football in the pool (oh, and Egyptians think footballs are the coolest things ever). After, there was some music and a few dancers.

Tomorrow's going to be a full day, and the predicted temperature for Luxor is 112 degrees. Needless to say, we're getting an early start (6am) so that we should be done by the time the heat really sinks in. I'll post a few pictures from today following this.

Oh, and I haggled for stamps today, so I'll be sending out some mail soon!

Two more adorable girls

I can't get over how precious this girl looks - I swear, she was actually smiling most of the time!

Some carving on the palm trees of the Botanical Garden

A boy who paddled up to our boat asking for money

Another young Nubian girl

A man and his camel

Putting sand in bottles

Two girls in the Nubian village

A little girl wandering around the market streets

Hanging meat in the market